Against the Grain serves a tasty lunch to go along with all that beer [Food & Dining]


Sandwiches are in the $10 range. I decided to try the “House-Smoked Memphis-Style Pulled Pork Sandwich,” which came with a side of smoked coleslaw. The sandwich came served open, showcasing a decent-sized pile of pork topped with pickled onions, all on a toasted brioche bun. The barbecue sauce sat on the side so the diner can add as much or little as desired. (I recommend requesting a second ramekin of sauce; one wasn’t nearly enough for the amount of meat there.) The sauce, which I tasted before adding to the sandwich, was quite incredible. It starts with a sweet smokiness, but then hits you with a strong spicy undercurrent which lingers after you swallow. I would be remiss if I didn’t tell you that this is one of the best barbecue sauces I have ever tasted.

It’s a good thing, too, since the pork on the sandwich didn’t really have too much going for it. While it wasn’t at all bad, it also wasn’t particularly moist or flavorful. It serves perfectly as a vehicle for the sauce, but perhaps marinating it for a while before cooking wouldn’t be a bad thing.

About the coleslaw: this popular side dish is something I’ve always been merely ok with – don’t love it, don’t hate it. I can take it or leave it. However, I’ve never had smoked coleslaw, or ever even considered the possibility, and friends, this is the tastiest coleslaw I have ever eaten. The cabbage was firm and crisp and lightly tossed in the dressing (whereas many coleslaws are drowned in it), and all of this was permeated by the wonderful smokiness. I found it hard to stop raving about it.

As well as sandwiches, Against the Grain offers entrees such as beer can chicken and grilled trout. My friend decided to splurge on the $17 duck breast with root vegetables. It came in a pleasing plating arrangement, small medallions of duck surrounding an autumnal mound of potatoes, squash, and carrot, all of which was drizzled with a pickled garlic sauce. The duck, cooked to a medium-rare, was moist and tender and full of flavor, while the vegetables were soft and buttery. My friend declared that the Black & Mild Smoked Porter makes a perfect pairing.

All-in-all, Against the Grain provided for a very tasty and relaxing afternoon. Great drinks, good food, and friendly service all contribute to a very pleasant atmosphere.

Logo courtesy of Against the Grain Facebook page
Photos: Allan Day

About Allan Day
My "real" job is bartending, but I'm a writer and a filmmaker, owner of Monkey's Uncle Productions LLC. I am also a single father, avid reader of books, watcher of movies, and listener of music. My idols include Kurt Vonnegut, Charlie Chaplin, Charlie Kaufman, Lloyd Kaufman, Lars von Trier, Ingmar Bergman, Thom Yorke, Jonsi, Don DeLillo, and David Foster Wallace.
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